Frequently Asked |
 |
Frequently Asked |
|
From:John T. Marlar - Winder, Georgia USA - Sept. 22, 1997
Problem: 12 year old Magnolia tree has never bloomed. It is very healthy, dark green leaves and is now approximately 20 feet tall. No blooms. It is the only Magnolia in the yard. It is the common variety here in the south. Why doesn't it bloom? Is there anything I can do to help it?
Solution:
If the tree has bloomed in the past and the leaves are not too dark, I think the tree is fine and the problem can be fixed. Start with the soil, have it tested for pH, and add amendments as needed. If the soil is too alkaline use a sphagnum peat, and if it is too acidic you probably could use limestone. Hopefully you can do some detective work from what I’ve told you and good luck!!
From: Carl F Wagner - Tecumseh, Michigan USA - Sept. 1, 1997
Problem: I have two magnolia trees which suffered severe damage as a result of a winter/spring ice storm. After assuming that they were dead I thought that I would have to dig them out and replace them. About the middle of the summer they suddenly started growing new chutes out of the main stems. Q. If I cut these trees off about 2-3' off the ground, will they send off new chutes from this point or will I kill them completely. If killed I guess I will have to kill them anyway. Any suggestions??
Solution: I have one question, is this new growth coming from the main trunk or from secondary branches? If the new growth is coming form the trunk it is probably suckers and water sprouts, which are weak wood and useless for future stability. If growth is coming from the outer branches then I would do nothing and see what happens next spring. Cutting the tree off at 2-3' will only encourage the weak growth I described above. One way to find out if your new growth is good is to check the spacing in between the leaves. If there is 8+" for one leaf to the next you have rapidly growing and weak growth. If the internodal length is 1-6" that is probably a good sign of healthy un-stressed growth. So, if you have bad growth the tree is doomed for death, if leaves are close together hold on till next year and pray. Also adding some sphagnum peat to the soil will help root growth and over-all health.
From: Renie Gaydos - Justiceburg, Texas - USA -June 27, 1997
Problem: I have a magnolia branch and it has flowers and buds on it. Is it possible to plant the buds to make a new one grow? Can I plant the branch and make it grow? Thank you for your help. I looked at your page and it was very spectacular. Keep up the great work!!!
Solution: Magnolias can be propagated by stem cuttings, however the buds can not be used to start new plants. The best way to success is to take a cutting and plant in straight perlite, keep moist and mist daily. After a month the stem should swell and after 6-10 weeks rooting should start. Keep in light shade and away from strong or frequent winds. If the stem does not swell after 4 weeks it probably won't survive. Start now and if it is not successful try again. Keep trying until Sept, after that it is too late. Use this years growth. A rooting hormone does help, if you have willow trees in your neighborhood, you can cut up a branch into 6-7 1" pieces and soak in water overnight and water the cuttings with that, although the store bought is a little more reliable. Good luck.
From: Kelly Fischer - Ottawa, Ontario -Canada - June 20, 1997
Problem: I HAVE A MAGNOLIA TREE (I CAN'T BE MORE SPECIFIC ABOUT TYPE, UNFORTUNATELY) THAT IS NOW IN ITS 3RD GROWING SEASON SINCE IT WAS PLANTED. WHEN I BOUGHT THIS LOVELY TREE IT WAS YOUNG AND SPINDLY AND ITS BRANCHES WERE ALL 'BRAIDED' TOGETHER. I LEFT IT IN THIS STATE FOR 2 SEASONS AND THIS YEAR I DECIDED TO 'UNBRAID' ITS BRANCHES BECAUSE THEY WERE GETTING LARGER AND I WAS AFRAID THEY WOULD RUB AGAINST EACH OTHER AND CAUSE WOUNDS. SINCE DOING THIS, THE TREE HAS REALLY SPLAYED OUT. IT APPEARS TO BE TOP HEAVY WITH LEAVES AND NEW GROWTH AND LITERALLY BOWS OVER ALL OVER THE PLACE, ESPECIALLY WHEN IT RAINS. ITS LONG SKINNY BRANCHES LOOK SO VULNERABLE LEANING OVER THE WAY THEY DO. I'M AFRAID IT IS GOING TO GET DAMAGED OR THAT MAYBE IT IS SICK OR SOMETHING. DO YOU THINK IT WAS WRONG OF ME TO 'UNBRAID' ITS BRANCHES? WHAT SHOULD I DO? IS THIS NORMAL? SHOULD I PRUNE IT? MR. GROW, I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THIS TREE IS SUPPOSSED TO LOOK LIKE AS A MATURE TREE. I REMEMBER IT WAS TO GROW QUITE TALL (NOT LIKE YOUR AVERAGE TREE), IT HAS A VERY SHORT TRUNK (MAYBE IT IS A BUSH?)FROM WHICH ITS LONG SLENDER BRANCHES GROW FROM AND IT HAS LARGE PINK BLOSSOMS. I REALIZE THIS TREE IS OUT OF ITS REGION BUT IT IS PLANTED BESIDE THE HOUSE AND IS WELL SHELTERED IN THE WINTER FROM WIND. IT APPEARS TO BE DOING WELL. IT WAS HAD A LOT OF GROWTH IN THE LAST COUPLE OF SEASONS AND HAS FLOWERED EVERY YEAR.
I HOPE I HAVE GIVEN YOU ENOUGHT INFO ABOUT MY TREE. I HOPE VERY MUCH THAT YOU WILL RESPOND AS I AM VERY WORRIED ABOUT IT. IT JUST DOESN'T SEEM TO LOOK RIGHT. I WISH I HAD A PICTURE FOR YOU. YOU MAY SAY THAT THESE TREES NATURALLY TAKE THIS SHAPE AND IT WILL FILL OUT AND LOOK STRONGER IN THE FUTURE OR YOU MAY TELL ME TO 'BRAID' IT RIGHT AWAY.
Solution: You have two options. One is to rebraid the branches. The branches will eventually rub and grow together to form one trunk. This is not neccessarly a bad thing. It is very common with tropical houseplants and can give the plant a unique habit. - The other option is to tie off all the branches. Using a thin rope tie all the drooping branches together so they are supported (by each other) to the position you want. The branches probably will need to be tied about 1/2 to 3/4 up the branch. It may take several years before the branches can survive without the ropes. That is why... I would recommend braiding the branches only so for so that the branches do not sag. If it requires braiding the same amount or more, I would do it. Eventhough it probably would not hurt the plant to be braided I would braid only what is necessary. The important thing is that it can't be left in it's current state. You need to provide the proper support and structure as early as possible. I would not prune the tree to reduce the top-heaviness until after flowering next year or else you will loose flowers for next year and run the risk of annoying suckers forming. If it shows signs of yellowing use an acid-loving fertilizer and iron sulphate. Adding sphagnum peatmoss to the soil also helps
From: Jay Steeves - Plainville, Conneticut - USA - June 8, 1997
Problem: Can you please tell me how deep the
roots of a mature Magnolia tree can go. The tree is approx. 20 years old.
It has unfortunatley died and it must be removed. The tree now stands approx. 18 ft. tall
+/- .
Thank you for any help.
Solution: Most trees have 90% of the roots in the top 2-3' of the soil radiating in all directions. This is where the right mixture of organic matter, water and air can be found. Roots can shoot off for 100's of feet in some mature tree species, while there may be just one anchor root going straight down. If you need to remove a tree usually the only part you need.to worry about is directly at the base. Digging a stump out by hand can be a big chore and requires removing all wood in a 4' radius. I recommend hiring an arborist to grind out the stump, their machines can remove a stump 18" deep. If you are interested in replacing the tree I would wait until spring next year, most of the stump and radiating roots will have decayed by then.
From: Mike Melland - Oshkosh, Wisconsin - USA - June 2, 1997
Problem: I am purchasing several "Doc Merrill" Magnolia trees and am wondering if you have any planting tips. They are supposed to be hearty in my zone (according to the tree tags) and I know that others in the area are growing them sucessfully. I've been told that they like "acid" soil and to use Myracid or ammonium nitrate fertilizer on them. Any advice on this particular species would be appreciated. Thanks,
Solution: I am familiar with 'Merrill' which I am guessing is very similiar or the same cultivar. It is known for it's 2.5-3" clear white flowers with up to 15 petals each. This cultivar grows much quicker than other cultivars of Loebner Mag. and is hardy to zone 3. Should reach 25-30' at maturity. Regardless of cultivar, they all need well-drained soil, alot of organic matter and peat, and yes, an acid soil. Fertilizing every 8 weeks during the growing season with Mir-acid is ideal. Supplement with iron sulphate or ammonium nitrate only if there is signs of yellowing.
From: Emmett Martin - Hobbs, New Mexico - USA - May 18,1997
Problem: We live in zone 7, but we have 4 magnolia trees that are losing their leaves. The local guy here said they needed iron, as we applied to leaves and ground, as yet this has not helped. Our winter this past year was unusualy harsh, and had a hard ice storm after they started growing. The trees are beginning to bloom, but seem to have dark brown on the blooms. The trees get lots of water, and this spring has been very nice, lots of small rain showers keeping the temp very nice. Last summer the trees were very full of leaves, shiny and dark green. This spring they are not as dark and have lots of spots of brown. I believe this is from the ice we had? The leaves are turning brown and falling off and the tree seems not to be as full as the last summer. This is the first full year we have live in this house and this did not happen last spring/summer. Could this be from the ice we had, or is there maybe an underlying problem? I have not seen bugs on the leaves and have looked at the trunk for any type of damage from bores or other bugs and have not seen any? Hope you can help, I would hate to lose these beautiful trees. Help?
Solution: It is probably too early in the year for insect problems, so that is not the problem. If leaves are turning brown and falling off it is probably a problem with soil. Magnolias are heavy feeders and can become chlorotic, they need alot of iron and nitrogen, supplement the soil with organic matter like peat. The brown spots are most likely cold damage and will only reduce growth for this season and should not cause permanant damage. If you have had a wet spring you might have a fungal problem such as leaf blight or black mildew. Your best bet is to take a leaf specimen into a garden center to see if it is fungal or cold damage. Since magnolias do better in warmer climates, you are probably correct about ice/cold damage. Good Luck
|
|