May's
'Tip of the Month'
Methods of Propagation
Propagation: To multiply by generation or reproduction, to diffuse, to increase. Propagating plants is one of the most rewarding, easy, and economical ways of increasing your plant stock. Besides saving money cloning your plants gives you complete control over the quality and genetics of your plants. Does your friend have a unique plant you wish you had? Propagating that plant can give an exact genetic copy of the plant without harming it.
Plants can reproduce one of two ways, sexually or asexually. Sexual reproduction is the natural combination of pollen and staman to produce seeds. On the other hand asexual propagation, also known as vegetative propagation, is a human-assisted cloning of a plant. This can be done by cuttings, division, grafting, or air-layering. The method used depends on the type of plant being multiplied.
Stem Cutting -
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Forcing a cutting to produce roots is the most common method of propagation. This method can used on leaves or stems, depending on the type of plant. Cut a piece of a stem or branch, remove the lower leaves, plant in soil, keep moist and wait for roots. This method usually works better with herbaceous plants but can be successful with woody plants as well. There are some requirements to successful cuttings. First is the medium that cutings are grown in. It should retain water easily and be coarse so that air can circulate and prevent root and stem rot. A mixture of sand and peat moss should do the trick. Also, a straight mix of perlite or vermiculite is good. Secondly, Rooting hormones can also improve success. Make angle cuts 1/4" below a leaf node to improve rooting. Moisten soil before planting a cutting. It is very important to have everything ready to plant because you want to get the cutting into the soil as soon as possible. If you wait too long the stem will form an embulizism ( air pocket) and die. To improve success place a planted cutting in a clear plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse. |
Division-
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Division is a guaranteed way to reproduce most perennials and some houseplants. In fact some perennials will die if they are not divided every 3-4 years. The best time of year to divide plants depends on the type of plant. Spring blooming plants should be divided in the fall, and fall blooming plants should be divided in the spring. If you have a summer blooming plant the spring is a better time to divide. Houseplants also should be divided at the beginning of the growing season. Use this form of propagation with plants with tuberous root systems or rosette-type leaves like: Irises, daylilies, hostas, caladiums, peonies, cannas, ornamental grasses, lilyturf and tulips. It is as simple as digging up the entire root system and chopping it up into 3-4 clumps. A sharp knife or spade is the best tool for the job. Plant immediately and keep soil moist for a couple of months. |
Grafting -
Basic Angle Graft. |
Whip and Tongue Graft |
Side Veneer Graft |
| Grafting is probably the most difficult form of propagation to master.
Grafting is the attaching of living tissue from one plant onto another. Sounds very
mystical and magical, but is fairly easy after some practice. Grafting is very common in
woody plants such as trees and shrubs, but is also popular with cactus. It gives the
gardener more options. For example, grafting is the only way you could have five different
fruits growing on the same tree. Another example of grafting are weeping and dwarf trees
like, Weeping Crabapples/Cherries and Dwf. Spruce. I once had a neighbor who grew roses in
his homeland ( Iraq) with six different colored blossoms on one plant. The main goal of grafting is to match the layers of cambium (xylem and phloem) tissue from each plant. The cambium layer is a thin layer of tissue just under the bark that transports water and nutrients. The stem of the parent plant is called the rootstock and the stem you are joining to it is called the scion. When the scion and rootstock are joined they form a calloused area where some of the cambium tissue will bridge and complete the flow of nutrients and water. When making cuts be sure to make a clean sharp cut and join. Be sure to choose scions that have leaf buds and are 1/4" at cut end. Use last years growth for evergreens and for deciduous plants use a section in the middle of the branch. It is better to graft plants while they are dormant and do not have a leaf mass that will transpire water quicker. For deciduous plants take scions in early or late winter. Do not use frozen wood. Collect the cuttings and put in a plastic bag with damp peat moss ( spagnum moss is better because it has a natural fungicide) and place in your refrigerator (40° f) for a few weeks. Be sure the exposed ends are semi-covered with peat to prevent drying. The same instructions follow for grafting cactus, however they two pieces should be attached immediately following the cut. MrGrow has had poor success with grafting cactus, you might want to heck out the Bookstore for more information on this subject. The side veneer graft is good for evergreens and dwarf conifers. Because these plants are slow growing, soil warmth is the key. Cool air temperatures will inhibit leaf growth and reduce transpiration, while warm soil will promote root growth for healing the callous. Use this method in late winter. Make a 2-3" cut down the length of the rootstock and then a second cut a the bottom of the first so that the severed piece is removed. Make an angled cut on the scion and then a second cut down the length of the scion. Fit the the two pieces together and tape together. Mist plant occasionally to moisten callous and keep soil on the dry side, water lightly but frequently. Whip and Tongue grafts should be self-explanitory from the picture. This is a difficult graft to master, but is a very reliable method because it provides a greater area of cambium interaction. Use this method for fruit and ornamental trees. Best done in the spring before buds start to break. Remove scions from fridge and soak in water for an hour or so before making the tongue cut and then piece together and tape. |
Air-layering -
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Air-layering is very helpful in shortening tall tropicals and ensuring plant genetics. This method is similar to stem cutting except the new plant grows roots while still on it's original rootstock. Use this method for dracenas, philodendrons, weeping figs, trees or shrubs. For tropicals start in early spring,just before the start of the growing season. For trees and shrubs late summer/early fall or spring is best. Make a shallow cut about ¼ of the diameter of the stem and wedge open with wet sphagnum moss. Fill a piece of plastic with moss and wrap it around the stem. Secure both ends with tape and keep a close eye on moisture levels. The moss should stay moist all the time. Within a month or two roots should start to form and the plant can be cut off from it's parent below the new root mass. If you have dark or black plastic, that is best because the roots like the darkness. |
Tip o' the Month Archive:
Keeping a poinsettia alive for next Christmas
Growing Plants from Seed
Making a compost bin
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