Mr.Grow's Plant and Landscape 'Problem Solver'

These are Frequently Asked Questions:

Turf Problems	Magnolia	Shrubs
Landscape Design	Shade Gardening	Perennials
Trees	Pests & Disease	Houseplants

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Linda Gaebel - Somerville, OH - 2 Jun 1998

Problem: We can not control the bugs in our potatoes(irish potatoes). They look reddish orange with black markings and are very soft. They eat leaves and stems. They also co-habit with colorado potato beetles. They leave trails of black around themselves. We have tried malathion and liquid sevin. Please HELP! At the rate   they are devouring the plants, we won't have a crop. Thank you for the opportunity to ask you this question.

Solution: The red bugs with black markings are the larvae of the Colorado Potato Beetle. Liquid Sevin should do the trick!??? You might want to try www.jerrybaker.com - They have products that are made from everyday household products that kill insects. Sometimes he gives away the recipe for the products so you can make your own and save alittle money. Lime dust also is good for getting rid of this pest. Be careful to use it sparingly because the lime will adjust soil pH. Soapy water also works, but not effectively. Potato Beetle and their larvae are easily knocked off plants. Try going thru your garden and disturb the plants so they fall off. Then pick them up or step on them.

LoraLee - Spokane, Washington -June 1, 1998

Problem: I added 20 bags, 1 cu. foot steer manure and compost enough I thought to do a garden area of about 12x15. I had rototilled the ground last fall. Then in April, I rototilled it again. The soil looked rich and I dug the area several times also. The weather was wonderously warm in April, but cold, rainy, and windy days in May. Today we had nice weather and I was outside weeding and even though the soil two to three inches down was moist the top layer was rock hard. Very discouraging. Now that it has stopped raining, we water once a day. What can I do to this soil that feels like concrete..? The only plants that are surviving are my June bearing strawberries, sunflowers, and surprisingly the winter squash (I put reemay over the squash.)  I have given the plants "Miracle Gro" as specified in the directions. What should I do? Give up? Rip everything out?

Solution: Do you have mulch in your garden? A good layer of mulch helps prevent the soil from drying too quickly and causing the hard-pan. Sometimes a soil that has too much peat will cause the surface to turn into hard-pan but since you have roto-tilled several times you should have a good  mixture and this shouldn't be a problem.  My guess is a 3" layer of hardwood mulch will help. If you already have mulch down, I would have your soil checked for pH imbalances from a local county extension office.

Amber Knight -Lancaster PA-  22 Apr 1998

Problem: I have peach tree's at home and we have leaf curl on them. Is there a cure that we are able to use within this growing season to help cure it?

Solution: I believe your problem is from a fungus. After combing thru a few books I found that it is, Taphrina deformans, a fungus common to fruit and nut trees. The spores hide out in the bark over winter and are splashed onto opening buds during the hard rains of spring. Nothing can be done this growing season. This fall after all the leaves have fallen spray the tree with a fungicide. Then remove all fallen leaves and discard. Next spring in early April spray again.

From: Linda - Michigan - April 13, 1998   

Problem: Requested info regarding transplant shock to a 15 ft white pine. I submitted the wrong email address. Suspect transplant shock due to browning needles and no new growth. all descriptions I have read indicate transplant shock but no solutions. Some green needles but are dull in color

Solution: The biggest problem when transplanting White Pines is the soil moisture. Trees need extra water after transplanting, make sure it is getting at least an inch of water per week( about 20 minute trickle from a garden hose). However White Pines are susceptible to root rot when placed in a site with poor drainage. If you have gotten an excess of rain do not give it any extra. White Pines respond poorly when transplanted too low. The top of the root ball should be 1-2" above the ground level. Try giving it a feeding of high nitrogen fertilizer, 20-12-12 or something close should be good. A good layer of mulch helps trees tremendously by stabilizing soil moisture.

From: Danny - Virginia beach, Virginia -

Problem: I'm doing a science fair project and my topic is "The effect of liquid nutrients on the growth of Lima Beans." Well thats going good I used Sugar water,tap water,ocean water, coffee,and mircal grow. My question is what makes different plants grow? What nutrients are in water that make them grow?

Solution: Water usually has very little nutrients. Water acts as a catalyst that allows the roots to get nutrients from the soil. Water does have some nutrients but most are micro-nutrients,  such as iron, boron and mangenese and many more. Plants need very small quantities of these micronutrients. There are also macro-nutrients: nitrogen , phoshorous, and potassium these are usually absorbed from organic material in the soil.

From: No Name -  Plano, Tx

Problem:  Is Dallas in zone 7 or 8, none of the maps seem to make it clear. Question: Will lilacs live and bloom in the Dallas area, if so what variety is best and where can I find it?

Solution: It can be tricky to figure it out when there are so many versions and they are always being updated. I have the same problem here in Columbus, Ohio(5-6). The only Lilac I know that grows in Zone 8 is Syringa meyeri, Meyer Lilac. I have seen it at Calloway Gardens in southern Georgia. It reaches about 8 feet and is slow growing. I would at least give it a try, the fragrance is definitely worth the effort.

From: DAVID Z - SHERWOOD ARK.

Problem: I planted 3 birds nest spruce last summer on the west side of my house. They did alright for a couple of months but right before winter the needles started turning brown and all have fallen off. I presume they are dead now. The stems are still pretty sturdy. I put quite a bit of compost around them when I planted them. Could this have caused them to shed? Is there any hope for them or do I need to pull them up and try again? I really like these plants and would like to know what went wrong so I can try again. When and how often do I need to fertilize? Do these plants like acidic soil? Also, I usually mulch all my leaves and dump them in my garden and till them into the soil every fall. Will this hurt my vegetable garden if I add too many? I'm really glad I found your web page.

Solution: I they have completely defoliated they are dead. Bird's Nest Spruce do like acid soil so peat should be the main organic amendment. Fertilize with an acid-loving fertilizer. They do not like wet feet so make sure you have good drainage, sometimes too much compost can clog the soil.  Inversely, not enough soil moisture going into winter can cause the plant to dry out in cold winter winds. Also there could be a pest problem that you did not see. Mites are usually the main pest of spruce during the autumn months.  I am not sure what the problem is, my guess is watering problems or spider mites. Either way it sounds like they have to be replaced. They are great plants and I would not give up on them. This spring make sure you have good drainage and use an acid fertilizer.   As for the veggie garden, yes too much leaves can cause problems in the soil. Check out my compost page to see why.

From: CHARLIE DREWS  -  FARIBAULT, MN

Problem: COULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO GROW POINSETTIAS IN A GREENHOUSE?  I KNOW A SMALL ORGANIZATION THAT HAS A GREENHOUSE AND WOULD LIKE TO START GROWING SOMETHING YEAR ROUND.

Solution: Growing Poinsettias in a large quantities in a greenhouse can be very tricky. First you will need some stock for cuttings, and the material to grow it in, soil, containers etc. Then once the plants are growing you need to be concerned about temperature. Poinsettia will not bloom if the temperature is not in the low 50's at night and no higher than 70 in the day. Poinsettias can become large bushes if they are not pinched back. In a green house, with  a large number of plants it will not be economical to manually pinch every tip. You will need to look into a growth regulator to keep the plants short and bushy. Your local garden center should sell growth inhibitors or tell you where to get it. White flies can be a large problem in the greenhouse especially with poinsettia. Look into insecticide for white flies because you might need it down the road. Watering is very important with poinsettias, I would recommend a drip irrigation system. Poinsettia will drop all their leaves if over or under-watered. 

From: Megan A. - St. Louis, Missouri

Problem:  I am growing philodendrons through propagation in water to see which type of variables produce the longest roots the fastest. This is my 4th grade science project and my dad is helping me with it (he is doing the typing) My three approaches are 1. cutting and glass with water exposed to light 2. cutting exposed to light but glass with water covered 3. everything covered from light. Why is #2 with the root area covered from light developing the longest roots? I thought that #1 would develop the longest roots. The roots in #2 are three times as long as the roots in #1. I have had the cuttings in water for four weeks. Also the ones in complete darkness are in second place and #1 is in last. What gives?

Solution:  The roots in #2 are the longest because they naturally grow the best when in darkness (in the soil). Each part of the plant has it's own job. The leaves collect the sunlight and make sugars to feed the roots and the roots absorb water and nutrients to feed the leaves. They help feed each other and keep the whole plant growing and healthy.
   
    But the real reason why roots grow better in darkness is because of chemicals called hormones. Plants have hormones that control their growth and they are called auxins. When auxins in the roots are exposed to light they reduce their growth and usually grow away from the light source. The scientific name for this is called negative phototropic reaction. This is the same reason why plants grow straight up ( positive phototropism) even when on a slope. I am not sure why the plants in complete darkness are growing as good as #1? Philodendrons are low light plants that love humid conditions, there must be some kind of light getting to it, or else I would think it would have died after the last 4-5 weeks.

From: David D. - Norwalk, Conn

Problem: We have a plant which we call a Shamrock plant, do not know proper name.It is a large green clover-leaf, and occasionally sprouts tiny delicate white flowers. It was brought back from Ireland as a small clipping nearly 30 years ago. It has been re-potted a few times since. I thought I was helping when I went to re-pot it, and separated what appeared to be a vast root system, small noads, with tiny root off-shoots. My grandmother said to clip the remaining leaves, and the noads should begin to propagate again in time. I have replanted the tiny root pieces, with a small amount exposed on top. Do you have any suggestions, about further actions I should take to ensure that this plant continues to live. It belongs to my Grandmother, and I'd feel terrible if I did something to hurt it.

Solution: Usually it is better to divide Shamrock , aka Wood Sorrel, in early summer when it goes dormant. However I do not think it should hurt the plant to divide now. It sounds like you repotted correctly. The rhizomes, noads, should be about one inch below the soil. Water them in well and then let the soil dry slightly in-between waterings. Place in a bright filtered light location.

From: JJ Clen - January 10, 1998

Problem: I have problems that the leaves on the inner 3-4 rows of several of my violets are curling under. According to things I have read, this can be a symptom of broad mites. What is your suggestion for getting rid of them?

Solution: Mites are probably one of the most difficult pests to get rid of. I would suggest a systemic mitecide from your local garden center. A ‘systemic’ is a chemical that is absorbed by the roots and transported through the plant to poison feeding mites. Because you can not get the foliage wet this is your only choice.. Look on the undersides of the leaves for the mites. They are incredibly small and sometimes you need to shake the plant over a white piece of paper to find them. Also, curling leaves on African Violets is usually a sign of low temperatures. Keep plants around 70-75f during the day and around 55-60f during the night.

From:    Jeff B. - January 21, 1998 -

Problem: I wanted to find out the best way for repelling large animals such as moose, cows, and deer. I am doing a thesis on reducing roadkill along
highways and rural roads throughout the U.S. and thought you might have some good ideas that would scare animals away from our roads before they
get killed. And maybe your advice can be used to protect gardens as well, right?

Solution: I don't have much experience with moose and cows, but I know that soap, human hair and ground pepper are useful in repelling small mammals. I have heard of many people hanging soap in panty hose from trees to repel deer and raccoons from gardens. Spreading human hair in your vegetable garden helps repel animals such as rabbits. Moth balls also work for moles, rabbits and raccoons. I don't know of any large sale solution for highways or roads. Maybe setting up decoys of predators might help. If you still need help try asking the Plant Doctor at www.garden.com, she might be able to help.
   

From: Miss Blue - February 05, 1998

Problem: I have several house plants that all seem to be afflicted with the same thing. I have ivy , tropical foliage, and a palm looking plant. Theywere all fine but then seemed to all start wilting on the outsides of their leaves, turning from brownish to white all around the edges. I noticed tonight some black speckles on all of the bottoms of the leaves of all of the plants. Almost like a fine sprinkle of dirt.

Solution: Mites are probably one of the most difficult pests to get rid of. I would suggest a systemic mitecide from your local garden center. A 'systemic' is a chemical that is absorbed by the roots and transported through the plant to poison feeding mites. Because you can not get the foliage wet this is your only choice.. Look on the undersides of the leaves for the mites. They are incredibly small and sometimes you need to shake the plant over a white piece of paper to find them. Also, curling leaves on African Violets is usually a sign of low temperatures. Keep plants around 70-75f during the day and around 55-60f during the night.

From: Bobby - Feb. 4, 1998 - Monte Sereno, Ca

Problem: I am growing the candy tuft plant under various different colors of light in attempts to figure out which light the plant will grow best under. I have found the green and the blue work the best. Do you agree of disagree ? Thanks.

Solution: I did the same thing to coleus plants for a seventh grade science project. I covered the plants with red, orange, yellow, green and blue cellophane. I had the best luck with the yellow and orange. The green and blue had darker foliage and reduced growth, while the red color caused a slight bending in the growth. Some people believe that green light causes shiny leaves but I have not witnessed it myself. The blue cellophane did some wild things to the variegated leaves of the coleus. Color tones and variations unique to the others.
     If you are having success with green and blue, my question is what is your light source? And what are using for a color filter? Are you using a colored bulb or a cellophane filter? Blue and green bulbs tend to be dimmer and do not provide an adequate intensity for photosynthesis. The problem is whenever you use a color that is at either end of light's bandwidth (red, blue, purple ) the plant loses the color from the opposite end. An equal balance is vital for plant health. I'm not sure what specific effect the colors would have on candytuft? It might have an effect on flower production?

From: AquaLadie - 6 Jan 1998

Problem: Why do plants grow up-wards when placed on their sides??

Solution: Plants grow upwards or towards the sun because of phototropism. All plants (at least 95%) are phototropic, that is their growth is affected by light. Leaves and branches are said to be positively phototropic and roots are negatively phototropic because they grow away from light. Phototropism is a reaction of light with hormones in the plant. These growth hormones are called auxins and naturally are concentrated at new growth tips.. Gravity naturally pulls the auxins to the bottom of the plant. If the plant is on it's side these growth hormones cause the side near the soil to grow faster, causing the plant to bend upwards again. So it is a balance of light source, gravity and growth hormones that keeps a plant growing straight up.

From: John - Attleboro, Mass.  USA- 5 Jan. 1998

Problem: Mr. Grow, I am 11 years old. The Science Fair at my school is in February and I want to show how plants will grow differently when watered with 1.Spring water 2.Tap water 3.sugar water and 4.salt water. Do you think this will be good?
I need some general information for a paper I have to write on plant growth. I will be thankful for any help you can give me! THANK YOU, John

Solution:  I think you have a good experiment in mind. Are you going to give each solution to individual plants or all to one plant? I would use separate plants of the same variety for each solution. I think you will find that the spring water and tap water will have a similar effect. Spring water has fewer chemicals and organic compounds but the difference in plant health will be negligible. The sugar water and salt water will obviously have adverse effects. The salt water will provide quick results. I don't want to tell you too much but it has to do with water's tendency to be chemically equal. Sometimes you might see white crusty stuff on the surface of potting soil. That is salt from fertilizer that has been trapped in the soil. High amounts of salt in the soil can cause pH changes which then causes certain nutrients to be locked in the soil. What do you think happens when a plant can't get it's food? The sugar water maybe slower to show any effects, but it will. Sugar will have an impact on the plant and the soil. I'll let you do some research on that one.Keep in mind that if you are trying to find the effects of the different solutions you need to keep other factors constant such as, light, soil mass and the amount of water. If all the plants receive the same amount of light, grow in the same size pot with the same kind of soil and each plant gets the same amount of pre-measured water you can
eliminate all variables except the sugar, salt and etc. A good addition to your experiment might be to add: tea, ammonia water, or soapy water to the solutions you have in mind. You might be surprised what those three chemicals do to plants

From: Thomas N. - Columbia Cross Roads, PA - 5 Jan. 1998

Problem: I am looking into hydroponics as a hobby to start (to build a better knowledge base) and plan to go commercial. I am in the northeastern region of the US so our growing cycle is short. Could you suggest or give me a direction into greenhouses? I haven't been able to find a good greenhouse that I could afford on a hobby level.

Solution:  Hydroponics can be an expensive hobby, but the close control over environmental factors is worth it. A good place to start is Worm's Way, they offer: hydroponic systems and supplies, HID lighting, gardening supplies, some books and -free catalogs!Worm's Way - Worchester, MA (800) 284-9676 Here is an excellent site if you want to go commercial http://webserver.hortnet.com/default.html. Not sure if they have info. on hydroponics but plenty on greenhouses and related supplies.   I used hydroponics for a few years but the cost was too much for just a hobby. The lights can suck down a lot of electricity and $$. I would recommend a 400-1000 watt light. The 400 watt Sun-Agro is an excellent light but covers only 36 sq. ft. If there is a 1000 watt Sun-Agro (120 sq. ft.) I would recommend it. Depends on your commitment. Sun-Agro is a brand that has a wider spectrum of light. I'm sure you have different electric rates but a 1000watt cost me $30/month at an average of 15 hours/day. I still you use rockwool for seedlings and cuttings, it is excellent at holding moisture and I can deliver the exact amount of nutrients without worrying about build-up.

From: Amanda - Augusta, Georgia - 4 Jan 1998

Problem: We need information on growing plants using either milk, water, kool-aid and tea for an 8th grade science project. We need to know which substance will cause a plant to grow better. Any information you can send would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Solution: Sounds like you have an interesting project in mind. First I'll tell you that you will not have much luck with the milk it's pH is too high, that is, it is too alkaline. Milk is also high in fat which is not good for plant growth. Kool-aid will also cause problems, it has too much sugar. Although plants need sugar for respiration they produce it themselves through photosynthesis. Tea is sometimes used as an organic pesticide. It also has tannic acid which is good for certain plant functions. I think tea would not kill a plant but at the same time it would not be the healthiest plant. And I think you have a good idea of what effect water would have. A good addition to your experiment might be to compare skim milk and 2%milk. Good luck with your project!!

From: Susan Gail - Ottumwa, Iowa  USA - 3 Jan 1998

Problem: I am planning a kitchen garden for this spring. The problem is drainage. The site is approximately a 25-30 degree slope, with the house at the bottom. The ground is new fill (last Frebruary) and has eroded down to the house. I know we will have to dig out around the house, but how can we prevent further erosion and ad drainage around the house? At the top of the slope is a lane. From the lane to the house is approximatley 35'. On the other side of the lane is an even steeper slope of lawn. In other words, we live on a slope that goes down to a small lake. There is not a flat place around!! I am also interested in creating some flat areas? I appreciate your website and any advice on the drainage problem. I forgot to mention that our soil is mainly red clay and not very porous. To make matters worse!

Solution: I am going to assume that your hillside is bare dirt. The first solution I would recommend is planting grass seed or ground cover. Grass seed is kind of hard to get established since the water that is needed for survival will only wash it away. Ground cover is excellent for erosion control. Many varieties have pretty flowers or unique foliage that adds character to the yard. Now, if I'm way off and you already have grass or groundcover and you still have problems than you need to build terraces. Just like the rice farmers of indo-china you will have to build (with stone or wood timbers) retaining walls to break up the slope into several levels. I saw that you found me through Alta Vista, that is an excellent engine to use, it is my personal favorite, if you use a keyword search on retaining walls or erosion control you should have good luck.
For good drainage around your house, you could add a drain tile, which is a perforated pipe that would be about a foot under ground and led to a spot where it could safely drain away. A French drain is also an option. A French drain is nothing more than a big hole about 5 feet deep and three feet wide. Fill the bottom with large rocks about 3" wide and then add slightly small rocks on top and then another layer of even small rocks until it is almost full and the top layer is only pebbles, then cover with about 4-5 inches of soil. Don't place a French drain within 20 feet of a house. Plant material is also good at stabilizing soil and removing moisture from the soil. Lastly you could add some organic material( peat moss or manure) to the soil so that it holds more water and prevents runoff.

From: Jeremy - American Fork, Utah - 1 Jan 1998

Problem: I have an orange tree the oranges reach about one to one and a half inches wide once fully matured I don't know what variety the tree is; the tree is only producing oranges on a few of the branches while the others although green and appear to be healthy, are not producing anything, is this normal? and do you have any idea what variety this tree is? thank you and i hope you can help out.

Solution: Coming from Utah, I will assume you are growing the orange tree indoors. Most of the indoor varieties are not going to produce the large Valencia oranges you see in the grocery store. Many citrus plants sold for indoor use are tangerines, lemons,  kumquat and mandarin oranges. You are probably growing a variety of tangerine or a mandarin orange. Sometimes a lack of bright light will cause certain branches not to fruit. Use an acid-based fertilizer during the growing season. Sometimes a single application of micro-nutrients in the spring helps plant health through the growing season. Also the roots need to slightly root-bound for good fruit production. Is there any sign of bugs? Citrus are prone to scale, mealybug, and spider mites, although none of these pests eat flower buds or fruit, they reduce the overall health of the plant. Scale and mealy bug will be found at the point where the leaf meets the stem as a white(mealybug) or brown(scale) patch. Spider mites are too small to see but you can look for small yellow dots on the leaves.

From: R Joyner - 2 Jan 1998

Problem: I have a question I need answered for my science project??I recently heard disolved aspirin in various plants and flowers is beneficial to grow by the way it changes the soil chemistry. Is there truth to this ??? Will it work on Garden variety plants, such as peppers, carrots, tomatoes?

Solution: Aspirin has no real effect on plant metabolism. However, it does prolong the life of cut flowers, don't ask me how it works. My bottle of aspirin said the second leading ingredient is carnuaba wax, go figure.

From: Rich H. - Millville, NJ - 30 Dec 1997

Problem: I have a Valencia orange tree which I am raising in a greenhouse. It is losing its leaves, not just a few here ot there, but before it is finished it will be bare. It did the same thing last year and new leaves came out. Is this normal? If not what could I be doing wrong?

Solution: Well, I have to admit that citrus trees are not my specialty. My question is, Do the leaves drop while they are still green or are there brown blotches, white specks or anything abnormal? Leaves that drop off while they are still green can be a sign of over-watering, scale or humidity problems . Large brown blotches can be cold damage,a slight yellowing can be a pH or nutrient imbalance. My first educated guest is that it is naturally defoliating for the winter. In southern climates oranges don't drop all of their leaves but the short days in NJ triggered the plant to go dormant. If the leaves uniformly change color than you are alright. Good Luck and I'm sorry I could not be more specific.

From: Stewart Jones - December 25,1997

Problem: I am a mature student (very) and I have been given an asignment to compare and contrast the mechanics of respiration in plants, animals and insects. If you could I would appreciate any information you could let me have regarding this including aquatic plants.

Solution: Respiration is the typical process where the mitochondria of cells of organisms release chemical energy from sugar and other organic molecules through chemical oxidation. Oxidation is the exchange of electrons. The sugars are produced by photosynthesis. In most organisms, respiration releases the energy required for all metabolic processes. Here is a chemical formula that explains it:

C6H12O6 + 6O2 = 6CO2 + 6H2O + released energy

The C at the beginning is sugar produced by photosynthesis, in animals it is any one of a number of organic compounds from our food. Even with aquatic plants all the components needed for respiration can be found dissolved in the water. The specific process of exchange from mitochondria to mitochondria is universal from aquatic plants to humans.

From: Tom Clark - Jonesboro, Arkansas - Dec.7, 1997

Problem:This past summer I planted a large amount of red tipped phitonias (sp?) for a privacy screen. They initially did not do very well and I discovered that they had a fungal disease called black spot which my local garden center told me is also common to roses. Anyway, to make a long story short, the plants started thriving after I started spraying them with the product given to me by the garden center and I only lost maybe 5 out of the 150 that I planted. I have not sprayed the plants in the last 2 months or so since the weather gotten cooler and noticed they are still growing. But there is still evidence of the black spot on the bottom of the plants. My question is as follows - Is this a disease that I will have to spray for always or will the plants eventually "outgrow" this disease. Also, what do recommend to treat the plants for this disease? They seem to be doing very well, they have grown from gallon size to about 3-4 ft tall in about 7 months. One more quickie, what do you recommend for fertilizer and what amounts and how often. Thanks for the great website, it is much appreciated.

Solution: Unfortunately black spot can take years to truly cure, but can be managable. It usually comes from rotting plant material or infected soil. The black spots are patches of spores that eventually explode and send the infection up and around the plant. Good garden clean-up in the fall will help reduce over-wintering spores. Pick up all fallen leaves, rotten fruit and branches and spread a new layer of mulch in the spring. One major way a plant gets infect is by rain splashing soil on the foliage and a layer of mulch will prevent this. Sodium bicarbonate, baking soda, is very good for treating powdery mildew and black spot. Mix about 1 tablespoon of baking soda and 2.5 tablespoons of horticulture oil and a gallon of water. The baking soda is a fungicide and the oil keeps it on the plant. Spray at the first sign of infection and repeat every two weeks till it is gone. Although the baking soda will cure the black spot, good garden clean-up is always needed as a preventative measure. Use an all-purpose fertilizer (20-20-20 or 12-12-12) in mid-spring. Do not fertilize in fall.

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